Sunday, I spent the day with friends snowshoeing and skiing up Miller Creek to the terminus of the Canwell Glacier in the Eastern Alaska Range. We couldn’t have asked for better weather for the Delta Mountains at the beginning of February. There wasn’t a cloud in the sky; temperatures stayed within about 10° of 0°F all day, and there was barely any wind, except for a very slight katabatic breeze near the outwash plain and lower moraine.
There were some snowshoe tracks heading up the creek from the parking lot, but they ended after about 300 yards. Starting around a mile in, we hit several long stretches of deep snow and postholing.
Around mile two, we picked up some old tracks. The creek valley was windswept, and travel improved significantly, cutting our pace nearly in half.
The contrast between the blue sky and the snow was remarkable. While we had plenty of sunlight traveling up the creek, it was clear that the glacier farther up the valley wouldn’t get any.

Once we hit the moraine, the snow conditions deteriorated again: firm on the windward sides of the slopes, deep and unconsolidated in the saddles, and on the leeward sides.
By the time we found and dropped into a cave, it was only about 45 minutes from sunset. It was one of the same caves CJ and I had visited back in early September (I still haven’t written about it, but I hope to post soon). I had expected it to collapse before the end of the melt season, but it hadn’t changed much. It’s a small cave, but within it lies a narrow secondary entrance where water flows heavily in summer. That passage was now frozen, and we could access it.
This narrow entrance opened into a vast room, filled with some of the most incredible ice crystals and ice spikes I have ever seen. The ice floor was incredibly slick, and it was noticeably warmer the further back we went. No flowing water, but there was some surface water on the ice, and the thick layers beneath us let out some big cracks a few times.
If you'd like these field notes and more by email, subscribe to my newsletter. Free.

The Sun set while we were in the cave, but we had the goal of getting off the moraine and to the creek before darkness set in. There were some gorgeous blue hour views up and down the valley. About a mile after hitting Miller Creek, the full moon rose over the mountains to the northeast. We had slowly watched the moonlight creep down the mountainsides to the south and west.
The trail had set pretty nicely since earlier in the day, so we had very little postholing on the way out, but I noticed my quads were starting to burn around the last mile, and I had to stop and rest a few times despite being on completely flat terrain. But, overall, the day was pretty close to perfect with perfect weather and not a cloud in the sky until the end. We’re already making plans for our next outing and to return to the caves when sunlight begins to return to the valley in a few weeks.
I already have quite a few photos up from the trip, but I will also be uploading a few more in the coming days and weeks in my photo galleries here.

























